Everest Hike: A Test Of Endurance

KUALA LUMPUR, Dec 27 (Bernama) -- The Pro-Chancellor of University of Technology, Malaysia (UTM) Dr Salleh Mohd Nor, 72, is the oldest Malaysian to reach the Everest Base Camp (EBC). The former Director General of the Forest Research Institute of Malaysia described his feat last month as a real test of endurance. Dr Salleh with two UTM staff and five undergraduates arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal's capital, on Nov 2 for the expedition and made it to the Everest Base Camp (EBC) in nine days. This is his story. After preparations and purchase of hiking gear, we left Kathmandu to Lukla on Nov 4 on a 18-seater twin propeller Dornier 228-200 belonging to Tara Airlines. Lukla, the short and narrow airstrip, perched on the Himalayan range, is purportedly the most dangerous airport in the world. If one is lucky to have a seat on the left side of the plane, which I did, one could see the magnificent snow capped mountain ranges of the Himalayas, including Mount Everest in the background. The view during the half and hour flight is spectacular. Upon reaching Lukla, we met our Sherpa guides who would take us to EBC. From then onwards it was journey on foot, the longest hike in my life. From Lukla, we headed north along narrow stone and rock covered paths with visible signs of wear and tear due to widespread and intense use over the years. The path was uneven, rocky but full of traffic with hikers going in both direction and punctuated by teams of black hairy yaks laden with all sorts of baggage from hiker’s gear to gas tanks, food and drinks. The cries of the Sherpa herder persuading his Yak team broke the silence of the afternoon. After an almost seven hour hike, we reached Phakding at 7.50pm. We spent the night at Budha Lodge Restaurant and Bar. Early next morning we were off again. We passed numerous Yak teams again and the beautiful Pinus patula forests. The well trodden path was steep, with jagged rocks on the ground and a steep 90 degree downward slope to the left that ends with a fast flowing river below and to the right a steep vertical cliff. The occasional stop for a drink and a piece of chocolate provided relief to the body that was beginning to tire. After a short lunch stop at Mount Kailash Lodge in Monzu, we were off again, entering the Sagamartha National Park at 2,865 meters above sea level (asl). A military check point with a clear sign “No Photography” and two stern looking Gurkha soldiers welcomed us. From then onwards, it was a daily 6 to 7 hour trek along narrow rocky and dusty tracks with crowds of hikers, Sherpas and Yaks laden with all sorts of goods. We passed Somare, Dingboche Khumbu Resort, Champa, Thukle, and finally reached Gorak Shep (5,180 meters asl) on Sunday Nov 11. The days were cold with temperatures hovering around 5 to 10 degrees C, while night temperatures fell below freezing and as low as -11 degrees C. I had begun losing my appetite and felt like vomiting every morning. I resorted to eating green apples and salt. At 7.25 am on Monday Nov 12, we left for the final assault to EBC. I still did not have any appetite but the Sherpa guides insisted that I finish my bowl of porridge for the energy, and that I did forcing every spoonful down my throat! The temperature was about 4 degrees C and my fingers felt numb and frostbitten. The Sherpas had to massage them to get the blood flowing. It was a steep rocky climb and thanks to my Sherpa guide and UTM colleague Sabri Ahmad, who helped and encouraged me. We finally reached EBC at 10.50am. The elevation was 5,364 meters or 17,600 feet asl. It was a relief and I cried uncontrollably for the success of this endeavour and said a prayer of thanks to Allah and all who had prayed for my safety. It was a small achievement but certainly a hard earned one. On record, at the age of 72 years I had become the oldest Malaysian to have reached EBC that was later verified by the Malaysian Embassy in Kathmandu. The weather was cold with glaciers around us. I was persuaded to try the crampons and pose along the steep icy escarpment. Azim managed to call home and inform my family that we made it and that we were safe. Every climb to Everest peak have to pass EBC and the support teams for the climb are based at EBC. It takes at least two months for the climb to Everest peak (8,848 meters asl) and climbers must acclimatize at every few hundred meters for their safety. After recording our achievement on photography, we left at 12.50pm for the slow walk back, past all the lodges before. My nose had begun to bleed regularly and I was still having problems with my appetite. We finally reached Lukla on Sunday Nov 18 where I had vegetable fried rice and raw green chili. We finally managed to get a flight out to Kathmandu and checked in at Hotel Holy Malaya. We converged on Anatalya Halal Restaurant where we had our first real meal of Bryani rice and chicken tandoori after nearly 18 days. This was later followed by the first hot shower and it was really great to feel refreshed again. His Excellency Fadli Adilah, the Malaysian Consul at Kathmandu entertained us for dinner that evening at a beautiful garden restaurant called the "The Garden of Dreams". That was the icing on the cake of the whole journey! The experience was a memorable one. It was exhaustive, tiring but very satisfying. My legs still feel the burden of 18 days of continuous hiking. I lost eight kilogrammes in weight but the hike would always remain fresh in my memory. Upon returning home, I fell sick with fever and flu and had to visit the doctor twice! I wish to put on record my most sincere appreciation to the Board of Trustees of UTM for their approval and support for my trip, to the Vice Chancellor, Prof. Ir. Dr Zaini Ujang for his personal encouragement and support, to Sabri Ahmad, the Assistant Registrar of UTM and (Mrs) Siti Salamah the Senior Deputy Registrar, for their companionship and encouragement during the trip, and finally to the Sherpa guides, Deep (Hasta) Bahadur Tharpa Magar, Pasang Nuru Sherpa and Da Nurbu Sherpa for their support that made it all possible. It was truly a test of endurance for me and I am grateful that I passed the test! (photoBERNAMA) MALAYSIA