Sea Route To Haj: A Lesson in Tenacity

  By Norul Akma Mohd Zain  GEORGE TOWN (Penang), Aug 21 (Bernama) -- Despite the geographical distance and financial hurdles, Muslims throughout the ages have always managed to find their way to the Holy Land of Makkah to perform the Haj. For adult Muslims who fulfil certain criteria, Haj is a mandatory religious duty to be performed at least once in their lives.  Many Muslims see the journey as an ultimate life goal in which they were prepared to work hard to attain. The majority of Haj pilgrims from Malaysia and around the world who travelled to Makkah between 1786 and 1976 did so by sea. For those who did not earn much, saving up for Haj was a much bigger challenge back then than it is today. Some would use up their entire life savings to finance the journey, while others pawned jewellery or sold land or livestock. There were those who would even loan from others to fulfil this dream of theirs, despite the Haj being mandatory only for those who could afford it – physically and financially. They were compelled to take such drastic measures because the cost of the trip to Makkah at the time was considered quite expensive and very few had savings in banks. This was because pilgrims at the time had little trust in the banking system as they regarded the bank an institution that practiced riba’ (usury). Others were worried that they would be cheated by a system that would manipulate their savings. CARGO SHIP The era of pilgrims travelling by ship to Makkah for Haj started around 1786, said Dr Aiza Maslan @ Bahardin, a senior lecturer at the Department of Philosophy and Civilisation Studies of Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM). According to historical records from the diary of the first Penang Qadi (judge) at the time, Sheikh Omar Basyir, the ships used for the purpose were cargo ships. “Before there was a dedicated ship to ferry Haj pilgrims to Makkah, pilgrims from Port Swettenham (now known as Penang Port) would sail on cargo ships. Companies known for such services were the Ocean Ship Company , better known back then as the Blue Funnel Line,” Aiza told Bernama in an exclusive interview at her office in USM. The number of pilgrims increased every year, as did shipping companies eager to cater to what seemed to them a very profitable business. “The shipping companies would place pilgrims on decks according to class. The items brought by pilgrims such as food supplies and even wooden logs would be placed below. “These activity carried on until the 1950s,” she revealed. TYNDAREUS, THE FIRST HAJ SHIP By 1950, Haj pilgrims started calling out for better services from shipping companies, said Aiza. They asked for a dedicated ship for ferrying pilgrims to Makkah for Haj. "The first ship in Penang assigned specifically for the purpose was the Tyndareus, a warship that had been modified after the end of World War II. “It was equipped with rescue boats, a clinic and a ship-to-shore communication system. The ship had a maximum capacity of 2,500 passengers when it was first introduced," said Aiza, who did her doctorate thesis on Haj and the Malayan experience. After the Tyndareus was decommissioned in 1954, another shipping company called the China Navigation Company offered to take its place. "The company was originally involved in the transporting of labourers from Singapore, Indonesia and the surrounding region. "Afterwards, its ships Anshun and Anking were transformed into ships to ferry pilgrims to Makkah,” she explained. In 1960, the China Navigation shipping company added another ship to its "Haj fleet" called the Kuala Lumpur Ship. These three ships were used for ferrying Haj pilgrims during the period. NEW COMPANY TAKES OVER The Anking was decommissioned in 1967, leaving only the Anshun and the Kuala Lumpur in operation. Not long after, in 1971, the China Navigation Company decided to withdraw its services for Haj pilgrims. Its place was then taken over by the Great Malaysia Line. According to Aiza, the company assigned two ships to transport Haj pilgrims to Makkah: the Malaysia Kita and the Malaysia Raya.  “These were the two last ships to ever provide such services before the era of travelling by sea for Haj ended. "The Malaysia Kita had to be retired after it caught fire while docked at the Singapore Port in 1974 while Malaysia Raya also caught on fire on Aug 23, 1976, while docking at Port Klang," she revealed. Due to the frequent challenges that arose in the transportation of Haj pilgrims, Tabung Haji (today known as Lembaga Tabung Haji) decided in 1976 that it was to be the last year for Malaysian sea travel for Haj. In 1977, sea travel for Haj was no longer an option. THE "SECOND JEDDAH" During the era of Haj by sea travel, the assembly point for pilgrims before sailing was in Lebuh Acheh, Georgetown. Today, the area is better known to locals as 'Tanjong' but back then, it was dubbed by locals and Haj pilgrims alike as "the second Jeddah". The atmosphere at Lebuh Acheh is often one of chaos and merriment as it was where pilgrims and their relatives gathered from all over Malaya before the journey to Makkah begun. Some would arrive as early as one to three weeks ahead of the voyage. Also there to manage the congregation of pilgrims would be licensed Haj agents from the Penang Haj Control Centre dubbed “Haj Sheikhs”. “These are the people who would handle matters relating to Haj passes, passports, ship ticketing and pilgrim accommodation in Jeddah. They would also be liaising with the Haj Sheikhs in Jeddah and managing the “Sahara box”, which stores items needed by the pilgrims. “That was how instrumental the roles of the Haj Sheikhs were before Tabung Haji was formed,” said Aiza. Due to the large concentration of people at Lebuh Acheh in the weeks leading to Haj season, the area also became a hub for economic activities during the period. “Locals would use the opportunity to sell Haj supplies, food, clothes and batik cloth, among others. The atmosphere was akin to a fair that was open 24 hours a day due to the influx of pilgrims and their relatives,” she said. CHALLENGES Providing sea travel to Haj pilgrims had become a lucrative business, but the way shipping companies managed the pilgrims left much to be desired. The weaknesses eventually led the Haj Control Centre to push for a more systematic pilgrim management. “There were many issues such as pilgrims being stranded at different ports because they failed to sail with the ship or to the port designated by Haj officials. These pilgrims thought that ticket prices would be cheaper if they chose voyages with transit points. “The problems would start once they arrive in Jeddah as they would be unable to secure help. This is because they are not recognised as pilgrims from Malaysia as they had gone on their own,” she explained. In addition to erratic weather and sea conditions, fires also tended to break out on board due to pilgrims cooking during the journey. There were also cases of starvation, the spread of plagues and even death among pilgrims on board. “I have interviewed pilgrims who bathed, shrouded and prayed upon those who died during the journey and buried them at sea. The ship would stop while the body is lowered into the sea and weight would be tied to the feet to ensure the body sinks. Once the body has fully sunk, the ship would continue on its journey. “These deaths do little to waver the faith or other pilgrims who are so determined to make it to the holy land that they even bring along with them their own burial shrouds, should they not make the journey to the end,” Aiza added. HEALTH PROBLEMS ​​​ Another major issue was that the Malay people back then were rather hesitant when it came to acknowledging and addressing their health issues. “Despite there being a clinic on board, pilgrims were reluctant to seek treatment. They preferred hiding symptoms of diseases and this eventually resulted in the spread of the bubonic and cholera plagues on the ship. “That is why the (Merchant) Shipping Ordinance in the 1950s stipulate that each ship carrying Haj pilgrims should have a doctor on board and that every pilgrim should be vaccinated,” Aiza explained. Pilgrims who wished to contact with family members back home were allowed to use the telegraphy system on board. “The telegraph sent by pilgrims would be received by a centre that would relay it to family members when the latter comes to the port. Communication was indeed very difficult back then,” she said. -- BERNAMA